29 Days North: What We Learned about Canada

1.  Canada is vast.  Yes, we were aware before our trip that Canada is larger in land area than the U.S. (including Alaska and Hawaii).  But in 29 days, driving 3,600 miles in the country, we barely scratched the surface. 
Yes, we visited five of the ten provinces but saw only a thin slice of Ontario (1 1/2 times the size of Texas) and a tiny sliver of Quebec (more than twice the size of Texas).

2. Canada looks like the U.S. If an American were dropped into the middle of a midsize Canadian city, it might take a while for him to realize he wasn't in the U.S. The local shoppoing center offers familiar fare: Wal-Mart, Staples, Michaels, Best Buy, Hallmark, Sears, and others. Lunch is available at Wendy's, Burger King, KFC, McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Subway or DQ.
Autos are about the same makes and models one finds in the States.  Roads bear similar markings and signage, and architectural styles look familiar.  Currency is similar-- the dollar, quarter, dime, nickel and penny.  Coins are even of similar size and color.  People look mostly the same, except that Canada lacks the ethnic diversity one finds in the U.S.  Since 90% of Canadians live within 160 miles of the United States, it's not surprising that so many similarities exist between our cultures.

3.  Canada is different from the U.S.  In the month we spent with our neighbors to the north, we were consistently treated with courtesy and respect.  Not once did we encounter the churlish, ill-mannered employees we see so often in U.S. businesses.  Bon Qui Qui does not live in Canada.

Language provides another striking difference.  Canada is officially a bilingual country and in the parts of eastern and central Canada we visited (except Prince Edward Island), we were as likely to hear French spoken as English.  Any time we were initially addressed in French, when we responded in English, the hotel desk clerk or restaurant server or retail clerk immediately shifted into flawless English.  Because the country has two official languages, school children are taught both languages from an early age. 
The parts of Canada that we visited are much more environmentally conscious than most of the U.S.  Litter doesn't appear to be nearly as pervasive, and recycling efforts are much more intense and consistent.

And lest we imply that all Canadian retail businesses stem from U.S. parent corporations, there are many Canadian chain stores and restaurants.  Tim Horton's, a fast-food cross between Dunkin' Doughnuts and Subway, is ubitiquous in central and eastern Canada and has made inroads in some parts of northeastern U.S. 

On the whole, we found the parts of Canada that we visited were more... well, more relaxed than the U.S.  We saw evidence of only one traffic accident and it was an encounter with a moose.  When one watches the news on television or reads the local newspaper, reports are not so focused on crime as in the U.S.  And as we noted in an earlier post, there isn't nearly the intense emphasis on security as one finds in the States.

The most surprising difference was the difference in the numbers of Canada geese.  Although they are greatly in evidence in the U.S., we saw very few in Canada.  Taxes are significantly higher in Canada, as are government services (particularly health care).  And much more often than in the U.S., Canadians will end a sentence with "...eh?"
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Day 61:  Asheville, NC to Peachtree City, GA
After replacing the logbook again for the Sister's Sixty letterbox we planted in Asheville in honor of Jeanne's 60th birthday, we set out for Charlotte and a lunchtime visit with Ken's mom.  We began this odyssey with a visit to her on May 1, so it seemed fitting to slide toward trip's end with her today.
Along the way, Vincent (our van) reached a milestone birthday.  As for his name, when he was younger, we once heard someone say, "Look at that van go!"  (no doubt Dianne was driving).  When we heard that remark, we figured his name must be Vincent.... 
Anyway, we crossed the 150,000-mile bridge today and hope to do a great deal more traveling together.  None of us was thrilled when we reached the Atlanta area around rush hour this afternoon.  The temp wasn't as bad as it could have been, but the traffic was certainly a wake-up call.
We're definitely back in the real world... for as long as we decide to stay.  We found everything in the apartment just as we left it.  Tomorrow we'll get to the post office to pick up two months' worth of mail.  Then we'll start planning our next odyssey.

Daily Stats
Miles driven:  426 (most for any day of the trip)
Letterboxes:  1 F, 1 M
High temp:  88° F
Bumblebees:  3,612
Day lilies on NC highways:  451,708
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Day 60:  Princetown, WV to Asheville, NC
Headed on a definite path back toward the furnace we call Georgia, we left West Virginia this morning wanting to just log some miles and get to Asheville, where we needed to do some maintenance on a letterbox we planted there.

We found a few letterboxes along the way, none too special, and continued down the road.  Our route today was back on the interstates:  I-77 to I-81 to I-26.  This would take us through the corners of Virginia and Tennessee and into North Carolina. 

With a letterbox waiting there, we pulled in to the parking lot at the Tennessee Welcome Center on I-81 in the early afternoon.  We had yet to eat lunch, so we decided to prepare some sandwiches before looking for the box.  Finally we reviewed the letterbox clue and headed out.  Walking toward the hiding spot at the opposite end of the parking lot, we saw a couple of women scaling the hill and approaching the multi-trunk tree that held the box.

"Those women have to be letterboxers," Ken said.  "Let's go introduce ourselves and exchange stamp images with them."  Before we reached the hill, we heard someone knocking on the window of a nearby vehicle.  Turning to look, we were stunned to see our cousin Kyle from Gallatin, Tennessee. 

We immediately realized that the women we saw climbing the hill were his mother and sister, our letterboxing cousins Alison and Kendyll (Songbird and Willow Sage).  They were on their way home from a trip to Virginia. We couldn't wait to surprise them.
Once we all hugged profusely and recovered from the shock of crossing paths so unexpectedly, we stamped in and then found a couple of other nearby letterboxes before separating and driving off in opposite directions.
Needless to say, Kendyll's beautiful baby Anna (Willow Sapling) was the best little letterboxer of all, so she was rewarded with many hugs and kisses, which she accepted graciously.

Now we know how to turn a dull travel day into a delight...stumble upon your fabulous cousins!

Daily Stats
Miles driven:  259
Letterboxes:  6
New schoolbuses in transit:  28
Cows lying in the shade:  89
Surprised cousins:  6
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Day 59: Weston, WV to Princeton WV
Our journey through the heart of West Virginia today took us smack dab in the middle of the New River Gorge National Recreation Area. As any West Virginian would be proud to tell you, the New River Gorge Bridge, at 3,030 feet long was, for many years, the longest steel-arch bridge in the world. 
The bridge carries traffic across the New River at a height of 876 feet, making it the highest vehicular bridge in the Americas.  The New River Gorge area is very popular with outdoor enthusiasts including hikers,  rafters, kayakers, and anglers.
Rapids from Class I to Class V (the most challenging) are available on the river, and plenty of outfitters and guides stand ready to help tourists experience the river in this heart-thumping manner.  The bridge is the centerpiece of the state's annual Bridge Day on the third Saturday in October. 

Bridge Day is the only day visitors may walk across the bridge.  Promoted as the largest extreme sports event in the world, Bridge Day is also the only time that BASE jumpers can parachute from the railing and rappellers are allowed to descend and ascend fixed ropes from the bridge.  More than 800 jumps were made last Bridge Day as 150,000 spectators looked on.
The bridge is such a point of pride in the state that it was featured on the WV state quarter issued in 2005.  Tomorrow we'll leave West Virginia, heading to Asheville, NC, a familiar location.  From there, it's back to the Georgia furnace.

Daily Stats
Miles driven:  178
Letterboxes:  3
River Rafters:  176
Kayakers:  10
Highway employees "standing around":  24
Motorcyclists from Iowa traveling in a group:  15
Honda Odysseys:  97 (41 silver)

Haven't Seen That for a While
Grits on the menu
Marathon gas stations
Shoney's
Mud-coated pickups
Ryan's Steakhouse
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Day 58: Pittsburgh, PA to Weston, WV
In the heart of downtown Pittsburgh, the Monongahela River from the south, and the Allegheny River from the north, join to form the Ohio. Many tributaries of these rivers cut through the city, making bridges a significant necessity.
According to a 2006 study by a University of Pittsburgh visiting professor, there are 446 bridges in the city. To be counted, a bridge had to be within the city limits and had to have piers and a stand. The Guinness record keepers accepted this count and officially named Pittsburgh the city with the most bridges, three more than runner-up Venice.

About 40 bridges cross the three rivers, and we have spent the last couple of days visiting and photographing them, an engineering scavenger hunt. Most types of bridge designs-- including suspension, cantilever, arch, beam, girder, truss-- are represented, and most of the bridges were built from locally produced steel. Many of the bridges in the downtown area are painted golden yellow to match the city's official colors of black and gold.
Fort Pitt Bridge

The Fort Pitt Bridge over the Monongahela River and the Fort Duquesne Bridge over the Allegheny River are on opposite sides of the city's "Point".  These twin bridges are both double-decked carrying four lanes of northbound traffic on the upper deck and four southbound lanes on the lower deck.  Like many Pittsburgh bridges, each has a pedestrian walkway on its lower deck.
Fort Duquesne Bridge

Built in the 1920's, the Three Sisters are three parallel, nearly identical self-anchored suspension bridges that cross the Allegheny River at 6th, 7th, and 9th streets. The bridges have been recently renamed for prominent Pittsburgh residents: Roberto Clemente, Andy Warhol, and Rachel Carson.
Two of the Sisters (7th Street and 9th Street)

Opened to traffic in 1883, the Smithfield Street bridge across the Monongahela is the city's oldest river bridge still in use and the oldest steel bridge in the U.S. Almost demolished for its inadequacies and deteriorated condition in the early 1990s, the bridge was saved and rehabilitated through the efforts of local preservationists.
Commissioned by the City of Pittsburgh as part of the celebration of Pittsburgh’s 250th birthday, “Arch” is a 20-foot tall Transformer-type robot which embodies designs from many of Pittsburgh's most recognizable bridges. As protector and champion of the city, Arch stands vigil on a downtown street corner, looking out onto the rivers.
The work of Los Angeles artist Glenn Kaino, the sculpture was originally slated to be on display for six months in 2008. Because he proved so popular with residents and visitors alike, Arch has lasted well beyond his expiration date.

For any lover of bridges, Pittsburgh is a great place to visit. And, if you're like us, visiting the bridges on weekend days is a relaxing and cheap form of entertainment.

After we completed our bridge tour and planted a letterbox in Pittsburgh, we moseyed down to West Virginia, where we thought we'd find some relief from the heat. We did not.

Daily Stats
Miles driven: 177
High temp:  90° F
Letterboxes: 1 F, 1 P
Bridges: 25
Munching Mountaineer Mosquitoes on the Monongahela in Morgantown: 13,288

Haven't Seen That for a While
Kudzu
Kroger grocery stores
90° F
Mimosa trees
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Day 57:  Pittsburgh, PA
As we were driving around getting to know Pittsburgh yesterday, in the distance we saw a limestone monolith isolated from the rest of the city's skyline.  Of course, we had to learn more, and, as we discovered, we had gone to the right place.
The Cathedral of Learning, once the tallest building in the city, is the centerpiece of the University of Pittsburgh's main campus in the Oakland section of the city. At 42 stories, the cathedral is the tallest educational building in the western hemisphere and the second tallest university building in the world (behind a Moscow State University structure).

Conceived by the university chancellor in 1921, the building was completed in 1934.  The main part of the Cathedral's first floor is the Commons Room, a Gothic-style hall that covers half an acre and extends upwards four stories. A gift of Andrew Mellon, the room represents true Gothic architecture with no steel supports used in the construction of its arches. Each arch is a true arch, and they support their own weight.
Despite its heavy use by students, the Commons Room is kept quiet by the use of acoustical tiles as the stones between the ribs of vaulting.  If this kind of atmosphere doesn't inspire studying, it's difficult to imagine one that would.

Hallways around the perimeter of the Commons Room on the first and third floors feature "nationality rooms," classrooms designed to celebrate different cultures that had an influence on Pittsburgh's development.  The classrooms were gifts to the university from the city's ethnic communities, often with contributions from the countries they represent.
The English classroom was designed in the Tudor style similar to the British House of Commons. Some of the artifacts in the room were rescued from the House of Commons after it was bombed in World War II and donated by the British government.
The Italian classroom is modeled after a 15th century Tuscan monastery. Student benches are carved with names and founding dates of Italian universities. The oldest is the University of Bologna, established in 1088.

Of museum quality, the rooms are designed to recreate cultural periods prior to 1787, the year the university was founded. All except two of the 27 nationality rooms are in regular use as classrooms by university students and professors. Eight additional rooms are under development.

This magnificent building dedicated to education is truly a cathedral of learning. Above the 15-foot wrought iron gates leading to the elevators in the commons room is this inscription: "Here is eternal spring; for you the very stars of heaven are new."

Daily Stats
Miles driven: 70
Letterboxes: 2
High temp: 84° F

Cathedral of Learning Stats
Height: 535 feet
Rooms: 2,000+
Windows: 2,529
Schoolchildren who donated a dime for construction: 100,000+
Common Room ceiling height: 52 ft
Peregrine falcons nesting at tower: 2
Peregrine babies born at tower (since 2002): 29
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Day 56:  Pittsburgh, PA
True confession time.  Mired in distant history, we were among so many others who assumed that Pittsburgh was a gritty steel town smothered in industrial smoke and fumes.  We certainly had no intention of visiting the city on this trip. 

We were wrong!  Pittsburgh has cleaned itself up from the pollution of the steel industry days.  In fact, one of the first words that comes to mind in describing today's Pittsburgh is green.
Green in both its appearance and in its forward-thinking energy efficiency, Pittsburgh has shed the steel dust and developed a reputation as one of the nation's "most livable" cities, based on factors such as environment, health care, culture and education.  High tech industries have replaced the steel mills and the medical field is one of the city's largest employers.
A monolithic illustration of this shift in industrial focus is the UPMC tower.  Built by U.S. Steel, the 64-story building is the tallest skyscraper in Pittsburgh.  USS no longer owns the building, although the company still maintains offices there.  When the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center leased several floors for the institution's headquarters, permission was obtained for 20-foot "UPMC" letters to be installed at the top of the building.

We visited a couple of parks in the city today and plan to see some of its many bridges tomorrow.

Daily Stats
Miles driven:  76
Letterboxes:  3
Trees in Pittsburgh:  147,392
Summer camp kids in Point State Park:  379
Carnegie museums:  6
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